With metal prices reaching historic highs, many people are interested in exploring alternatives to traditional 14 Kt gold and sterling silver.  There are acceptable substitutes such as copper and nickel that are dramatically different and stand really well on their own as a nontraditional choice. Other choices, such as plated and filled stock can also be used in more traditional designs.

Recently a friend asked what the difference between gold-filled and gold-plated is. Gold-filled stock (wire, sheet) is gold that has another metal at its core. Usually gold-filled stock is 14 kt layered over copper with the end result being 10 kt gold. Good quality gold-filled stock will look nearly identical to 14 kt when new. By contrast I have a 10 kt cross from Ireland that is not filled, it was cast using a 10 kt alloy, and it has a nice, but dark patina to it.

Gold-plated stock is an inexpensive base metal (copper, brass or sometimes lead), that has been dipped in an electrochemical bath along with a piece of real gold. Non-metal items can also be plated. The nice thing about plating is that large surfaces can be covered in a very thin layer of gold.

With either , the design and metal working techniques will need to bend to the needs of the material. It’s not so much that form has to follow function here, rather it’s that form is directed by the unique characteristics of whichever one you choose. In both case, it is really important that the metal is protected from corrosion and scratches.

Corrosion comes in may forms and unlike stock that is made from one type of alloy, the corrosion is not easily removed using chemicals or mechanical means. First and foremost wash your hands before handling any metal and avoid using hand lotion. Metal like this is also difficult to solder. Gold melts at 1947F , copper at 1981F. A thin layer of gold will become burnt and may even start to ball up and pull away from it’s core if it’s over-heated. Firescale can be very hard to remove from copper and generally gold should not be pickled. I always find it hard to clean and polish something if it’s just a thin veneer.

Scratches are something every jeweler must deal with, although they are particularly bad on filled and plated stocks because it is possible to go right through the coating and get to the base metal core. Some people will wrap their tools in tape. I use an adhesive-backed flannel called “mole skin.” Although I can not imagine how it helps with your feet, mole skin is sold by Dr. Scholl’s.